The Long Thread Podcast

As a knitter in a new place, Irene Waggener looks for knitting as she explores. Not all of the countries where she finds herself have robust yarn-shop networks and textile tourism, so sometimes she needs to get creative in her search. During a three-year stint in Morocco, her first glimpse of knitting was in the back of a local museum, where a striking pair of black-and-white knitted pants hung among other traditional craft objects. Although the staff at the museum couldn’t tell her much about them, she was encouraged to look for knitters in the neighboring valley, where she found not only some of the last knitters who knew how to make the knitted pants but also an existing handknit sock practice. In the village of Timloukine, men take their knitting along for months away from home as they tend their sheep. In the cold winters of the High Atlas, the synthetic mass-produced socks that have reached the village are no match for the traditional handmade wool socks. Irene learned to knit the unusual wool pants, called sirwal, and a variety of other traditional knitted items from the region. She wrote her first book about the knitting practices of the High Atlas, combining cultural anthropology, historical research, and kandknitting patterns in Keepers of the Sheep: Knitting in Morocco’s High Atlas and Beyond. In her next destination, Armenia, Irene found a knitting culture that more closely resembles what North American and European knitters would recognize: contemporary knitters who pick up their needles for enjoyment and self-expression, with a variety of mostly synthetic yarns available in craft stores. Getting out into rural areas, though, she met an older generation of knitters who still use old-style, unusual colorwork techniques, many of them related to the region’s rug weaving. Drawing on a breed association for the gampr, a treasured Armenian livestock guardian dog, and plenty of serendipity, Irene found knitters willing to share their sock-knitting traditions. As an independent researcher, Irene Waggener has followed her knitting to extraordinary places, and she invites us to follow and knit along. This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. KnitPicks.com has been serving the knitting community for over 20 years and believes knitting is for everyone, which is why they work hard to make knitting accessible, affordable, and approachable. Knit Picks responsibly sources its fiber to create an extensive selection of affordable yarns like High Desert from Shaniko Wool Company in Oregon. Are you looking for an ethical, eco-friendly yarn to try? Look no further than Knit Picks’ Eco yarn line. Need needles? Knit Picks makes a selection for knitters right at their Vancouver, Washington headquarters. KnitPicks.com (https://www.knitpicks.com/)—a place for every knitter. Sustainability and regenerative ranching have been a way of life for the ranches of Shaniko Wool Company for decades. They are the first “farm group” in the U.S. to achieve certification to the rigorous international Responsible Wool Standard and NATIVA Regenerative. Shaniko ranches raise Merino/Rambouillet sheep in the Western United States, delivering a fully traceable wool supply that gives back to the Earth and its ecosystems. To learn more, and discover Shaniko’s yarn partners, visit ShanikoWoolCompany.com. (https://www.shanikowoolcompany.com/) Knitters know Manos del Uruguay for their yarns’ rich tonal colors, but the story of women’s empowerment and community benefit enriches every skein. Discover 17 yarn bases from laceweight to super bulky made and dyed at an artisan owned cooperative in Uruguay. Ask for Manos at your local retailer or visit FairmountFibers.com (https://fairmountfibers.com/).

In 1974, two young industrial designers in the Netherlands started a company making spinning wheels. Beginning in a family member’s chicken coop, they built a modern wheel featuring an upright castle-style format, a then-uncommon bobbin-lead drive system, and a drive wheel without spokes. Jan Louët Feisser and Clemens Claessen named their company Louët and began building the now-iconic S10 spinning wheel. The company soon moved out of the chicken coop and brought on other employees. By 1982, they began making looms, from expandable table looms to countermarche and eventually dobby looms. The founders, who loved the design aspect more than management, brought on Theo Vervoorn to handle the daily logistics. Across the Atlantic in Canada, a family of Dutch immigrants had started a farm as part of the “back to the land” movement. The sheep raised on their farm produced wool that needed to be processed, so Trudy van Stralen learned to spin, weave, and dye. She began selling Louët spinning wheels and soon became not only one of the company’s largest dealers but also an adviser on the fiber arts market. The van Stralen company founded Louët North America, with David van Stralen joining in 1994 and developing a special focus in equipment mechanics and maintenance. Over 50 years, countless aspects of Louët’s business have changed, and their practices have kept up. The modern manufacturing techniques that Louët pioneered in 1974 have continued to evolve, with 3D modeling, computer-guided milling, and contemporary materials finding their place in the company’s products alongside the high-quality wood that exemplified even the earliest wheels. Customers seek out answers online and in videos at all hours, and Louët strives to reply to customer questions in 24 hours. From small improvements to existing equipment to new products large (dobby looms) and small (inkle looms and a brand-new ballwinder), the company keeps design as a central focus. Some aspects of the business continue unchanged as the company has passed to a second generation. Theo Vervoorn’s son, Paul, joined the company in 2012 and purchased it in 2023. David van Stralen joined Louët’s main business as director of operations in 2022, though he can still be found replying to customer support tickets on weekends and tuning up equipment at festivals. As they plan for their next 50 years, Louët’s customer support team continues to help half a century’s worth of customers, and the design team has a list of products and innovations they’re working on. In this spotlight episode, discover what sustains the company and how they approach spinning and weaving. Links Louët.nl (https://www.louet.nl/) Louët’s 50th anniversary celebrations (https://b2b.louet.nl/en/50-years-louet) Louët dealers (https://b2b.louet.nl/en/dealers) can be found in 45 countries. (If you have a question ourside your dealer’s business hours, you may find your answer at their Support portal. (https://b2b.louet.nl/en/support) Linda Ligon’s article “The Louet s10 Spinning Wheel Is 50 Years Young” shares her experiences collaborating with Louët over a half century. This episode is brought to you by: Louët Team Louët (https://www.louet.nl/) is proud to be part of a multi-generational family business. We have been producing high quality handcraft products for 50 years. We take pride in our workmanship, innovative products, and customer service. We look forward to helping you with your next Louët products or to help introduce you to our fine products for the first time.

The Nettle Dress is available to stream online (https://watch.eventive.org/nettledressfilm/play/66fd50e5edab64004eb9dd5f) from November 15–December 2, 2024. Most of us avoid nettles, thinking of them as weeds whose little stinging hairs can inject a painful toxin into the unexpecting walker. But strolling through the woods near his home in England, Allan Brown was captivated by the tall native plants. Knowing that textile cultures across the world have produced cloth from nettles, he wanted to learn more about cloth made with nettle fiber. Except for a few exceptions—giant Himalayan nettles and ramie, which is a non-stinging plant in the nettle family—the era of nettle textiles is over. But thousands of years ago, nettle cloth and cordage fulfilled human needs for garments and tools. Like other ancient textiles, nettle cloth has almost entirely disappeared, rotted away and returned to the soil. Allan knew that the only way to experience cloth made from nettle would be to create it himself, so he set about processing, spinning, and weaving fabric from stands of nettles that grew wild in the woods. Before he could get down to cloth-making, though, he had to learn how to extract the fiber from the plant—a process without contemporary documentation or a skilled teacher. (The stinging parts of the plant are removed during processing, so textiles made from nettle fiber feel more like cotton or linen than stinging barbs.) He learned to spin, which proved not only the most time-consuming but also the most meaningful part of the project. “I just found spinning so therapeutic,” he says. He felt the solace of handspinning keenly when his wife, Alex, passed away over the course of his nettle exploration. In the aftermath of Alex dying, my world grew very small, my perimeters drew in, and I was just looking after the family. Sometimes my only connection to a wider world was just going out and collecting nettles, but it was within a really small geographical margin. So I think events sort of led me to, rather than looking for bigger and more, I tuned into the familiar, going in deeper and seeing what I could find and what I’d previously overlooked. And realizing, oh my goodness—all these plants, they provide dyes, these plants provide fibers, and they’re all there right on my doorstep and have been under my nose all along. So it feels like it’s really connected me to a sense of place in a much deeper way than perhaps I had been before. As he spun years’ worth of yarn, Allan decided that the nettle project would culimate in a dress. A simple shape, cut efficiently from a narrow width of cloth, would be enough to create a dress for his daughter Oonagh, so he wove yards of plain-weave fabric and even spun the sewing thread to stitch the piece together. Seven years after his first experiments with nettle fiber, he slipped a handmade nettle dress over her head. Following Allan on his exploration, his film-director friend Dylan Howitt captured the stages of the process and has released a film called The Nettle Dress. (https://www.nettledress.org/) The film has been released in a number of markets, including the United Kingdom, and some audiences have been fortunate to meet the fiber artist and even touch the dress at a screening. The story of the dress and its creator remind us that the long history of foraged, handmade cloth can be ours again if we have the dedication to revive it. Links The Nettle Dress film website (https://www.nettledress.org/) The Nettle Dress on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/nettledressfilm/) "The Nettle Dress: A Tale of Love and Healing (https://spinoffmagazine.com/the-nettle-dress/) review by Linda Ligon Nettles for Textiles Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1648679398499874/) Nettles for Textiles web page (http://www.nettlesfortextiles.org.uk/wp/) From Sting to Spin, a History of Nettle Fibre (https://gillianedomsbook.blogspot.com/p/buy-book.html) by Gillian Edom This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway’s array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. You’re ready to start a new project but don’t have the right yarn, or you have the yarn but not the right tool. Yarn Barn of Kansas can help! They stock a wide range of materials and equipment for knitting, weaving, spinning, and crochet. They ship all over the country, usually within a day or two of receiving the order. Plan your project this week, start working on it next week! See yarnbarn-ks.com (https://www.yarnbarn-ks.com/) to get started. Knitters know Manos del Uruguay for their yarns’ rich tonal colors, but the story of women’s empowerment and community benefit enriches every skein. Discover 17 yarn bases from laceweight to super bulky made and dyed at an artisan owned cooperative in Uruguay. Ask for Manos at your local retailer or visit FairmountFibers.com (https://fairmountfibers.com/). Creating consciously crafted fibers and patterns is more than just a focus for Blue Sky Fibers, it’s their passion. Ever since they started with a small herd of alpacas in a Minnesota backyard, they’ve been committed to making yarn in the best way possible to show off its natural beauty. While their exclusive offerings have grown beyond alpaca to include wool, organic cotton, and silk, their desire for exciting makers about natural fibers hasn’t changed one bit. It all winds back to the yarn, ensuring that every precious, handmade hank is lovingly filled with endless inspiration. blueskyfibers.com (https://blueskyfibers.com/)

Melvenea Hodges nurtures a small crop of cotton in her back yard in South Bend, Indiana. Besides beautiful foliage and some of her favorite fiber to spin, she tends her plants to celebrate what she can create with her own hands—not just beautiful textiles but a connection to her heritage and a source of peace. As a primary school teacher, her working days are hectic, but she and a friend have a pact to save some creativity for themselves. Although her spinning and weaving projects are ambitious, she doesn't confuse creativity with productivity. The magic happens, she says, "once we take away the element of creating for some kind of purpose and just accept that creating is a natural part of being and that it is inherent in us." That creativity takes the form of exploring Scandinavian weaving, spinning to weave a traditional overshot coverlet, or painting whimsical wooden jewelry. No matter what, though, she grounds each day by spinning cotton, seated on the floor with her back to a wall, losing her thoughts as her spindle turns. "If your life's whirlwind is whirling too fast," she advises, "get yourself a spindle." This episode is brought to you by: Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com (https://www.treenwaysilks.com/). You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white. If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed. KnitPicks.com has been serving the knitting community for over 20 years and believes knitting is for everyone, which is why they work hard to make knitting accessible, affordable, and approachable. Knit Picks responsibly sources its fiber to create an extensive selection of affordable yarns like High Desert from Shaniko Wool Company in Oregon. Are you looking for an ethical, eco-friendly yarn to try? Look no further than Knit Picks’ Eco yarn line. Need needles? Knit Picks makes a selection for knitters right at their Vancouver, Washington headquarters. KnitPicks.com (https://www.knitpicks.com/)—a place for every knitter. Knitters know Manos del Uruguay for their yarns’ rich tonal colors, but the story of women’s empowerment and community benefit enriches every skein. Discover 17 yarn bases from laceweight to super bulky made and dyed at an artisan owned cooperative in Uruguay. Ask for Manos at your local retailer or visit FairmountFibers.com (https://fairmountfibers.com/). Creating consciously crafted fibers and patterns is more than just a focus for Blue Sky Fibers, it’s their passion. Ever since they started with a small herd of alpacas in a Minnesota backyard, they’ve been committed to making yarn in the best way possible to show off its natural beauty. While their exclusive offerings have grown beyond alpaca to include wool, organic cotton, and silk, their desire for exciting makers about natural fibers hasn’t changed one bit. It all winds back to the yarn, ensuring that every precious, handmade hank is lovingly filled with endless inspiration. blueskyfibers.com (https://blueskyfibers.com/)