The Long Thread Podcast

How could you possibly improve on wool, the perfect fiber? In the 20th century, scientists thought they could do just that. Some of their innovations have disappeared . . . but some remain.

In the middle of the 20th century, with technology promising a modern lifestyle that would be newer and better in every way, wool fiber began to look old-fashioned. The incredible demand for wool up through World War II began to wane, and the apparent miracle of synthetic fiber reached American homes.

Yet sheep still formed the backbone of some states’ economies, and they kept producing wool. If only there were some way to make it easier to wash and prevent moths from eating clothes, carpets, and furniture, modern households might still have a place for wool. And if wool fiber was less important, maybe there was another use for fleece.

In her new book, Reinventing Wool, Professor Melissa M. Littlefield takes us through the history of four innovations that sought to bring wool into the modern era: Woolite synthetic detergent, machine-washable wool, the chemical insecticide EQ-53, and extraction methods for lanolin. From a national roadshow featuring a starlet bathing a lamb in a tub of Woolite to a toxic DDT-containing fabric treatment, the improvements range from everyday to strange. Yet in their own ways, each of the treatments imagined a place for wool in a rapidly changing world.

Littlefield talks about how her research spoke to her personally as a spinner, knitter, and small-batch wool yarn producer. Decades after these groundbreaking “improvements” to wool, most of our furniture isn’t vulnerable to moth damage anyway. Lanolin is a common ingredient in both personal care and industry. And crafters debate the value of machine-washable wool, even as we find it in every yarn shop. Who could have predicted where wool would go?

Links

Reinventing Wool

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

A small group of Vermonters wanted to improve the environment and preserve the rural character of the state. Along with two friends, David Richie and his wife found a way: they founded the Green Mountain Spinnery.

David Richie and his wife, Diana, wanted to keep their home state and region green and farm-friendly. Believing in thinking globally and acting locally, they joined a reading group in the late 1970s with others interested in conservation and social responsibility. Concerned about the environmental dangers of nuclear power in New England, their friends Claire Wilson and Libby Mills found themselves in jail after protesting a nearby power plant, giving them time to talk about what they could do to make a difference on a smaller scale. Claire asked, “When I see so many sheep here in Vermont, why do I have to order my weaving yarn from Sweden?”

Farmers’ markets had begun to arise, bringing produce from the field to home cooks in the heart of the city, letting small-scale farmers keep more of their profits by selling direct. Why not do the same for shepherds and make their sheep’s wool available to weavers? As knitters and weavers, Claire and Libby knew about using yarn, but none of the four knew anything about operating a wool mill, let alone starting one. Undaunted, they took one step after another: they wrote a business plan, purchased an old gas station as their new facility, and began purchasing mill equipment.

And so began an adventure that has passed 45 years and is still gathering steam.

Learning to produce yarn—understanding the equipment, downstream (literally) effects, sourcing fibers—is an ongoing process. The Spinnery makes thousands of pounds of yarn each year for farmers, yarn companies, and their own store, but they continually refine the process, from improving their wastewater handling to switching over to more eco-friendly spinning oil. Although David began without fiber experience, his influence is felt in every part of the tightly-packed Spinnery building.

In addition to environmental stewardship, the Spinnery has always been dedicated to offering an equitable work environment. To give employees a stake in the company’s success, they decided early on to become a worker-owned cooperative. The values that led to Green Mountain Spinnery’s founding in 1981 continue guiding the project.

Links

Green Mountain Spinnery

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway’s array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

The Mountain & Valley Fiber Arts Festival comes to Durango, Colorado, the first full weekend in October. Formerly the Taos Wool Festival, this new chapter brings together natural fiber artists, vendors, instructors, growers, and makers for a weekend of shopping, learning, and community. Plan your fiber arts weekend at Mountain & Valley Fiber Arts Fest at mavwafiberartsfest.org.

Green Mountain Spinnery is a worker-owned cooperative woolen mill with over 45 years of experience spinning quality yarns from natural local and US-produced fibers. They craft woolen-spun yarns in a wide variety of rich heathered hues and premium fiber blends. As a part of the chain from sheep to skein and shepherd to maker, Green Mountain Spinnery is dedicated to respecting the environment we all share. Visit the mill shop in Putney, VT, or explore their collection at spinnery.com.

A love of words, stories, and cloth led Karen Elting Brock around the world and back to PieceWork.

”All This by Hand” appeared on the first covers of PieceWork magazine, intended to capture the scope of material between the covers. Stitching, lacemaking, and other needlework, certainly, but other handwork, fashion, and the artisans who created the work all found their way into the pages of the magazine. The scope of the project—worldwide, from historical to contemporary, from anonymous to celebrated—has made it beloved by its readers and also difficult to explain. All this by hand, indeed.

Karen Elting Brock first joined the staff of PieceWork in 2010, working with authors who were artisans or had stories to tell. From her desk, she pored through the collections of international museums and chased down photographers for just the image that would tell the story of a textile. After several years on the editorial staff, she moved on to experience global stories for herself, living in (and sending dispatches from) Nepal, Morocco, and other international locations. Even (or especially) in remote villages, textiles and makers continued to find her.

In 2025, Karen was ready to return to Colorado, and PieceWork welcomed her to the editor’s seat. As of recording time, Karen has brought some of her ambitions for the publication to fruition—she’s especially excited about the Fall 2026 Museum Issue and the new reader-fed international museum directory—but she has a list of other ideas she’s eager to explore. In this episode, we explore some of her favorite textile stories and some of her plans for the future.

Links

PieceWork issues and website

PieceWork’s Blue & White Issue, released in Summer 2026

International Needlework Museum Directory

“Knitting on Peru’s Taquile Island” by Linda Ligon

“Spinning Giant Nettle in the Himalayas”

Karen’s posts for pieceworkmagazine.com

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

“Hi, I’m Gabi van Tassell from Bluebonnet Crafters, and I’m the inventor of TURTLE pin looms. Pin looms are small, handheld looms that quickly weave self-contained fabric pieces like squares, hexagons, and more. Weave them with almost any yarn you have on hand, then combine them into projects of any size. They make a wonderful companion for any fiber lover, at home or on the go. I’d love for you to visit us at turtleloom.com to explore the full loom catalog, patterns, and more. Hope to see you there.”

The Mountain & Valley Fiber Arts Festival comes to Durango, Colorado, the first full weekend in October. Formerly the Taos Wool Festival, this new chapter brings together natural fiber artists, vendors, instructors, growers, and makers for a weekend of shopping, learning, and community. Plan your fiber arts weekend at Mountain & Valley Fiber Arts Fest at mavwafiberartsfest.org.

As a budding crochet designer, Lir Shilton ran into obstacles and annoyances that many beginning crafters face. But instead of learning to live with them, she and her partner decided to make a platform that offers a different approach.

Lir loved to crochet, and she especially loved creating designs to share with other makers. But crochet patterns vary significantly depending where you are in the world—and not just in translating centimeters to inches. Was that a British double crochet or an American double crochet? Did the directions mean to work the decreases 5 times or 5 more times? Which of the 9 sizes did this direction apply to? What color was A?

As Lir described her frustrations to her husband, Saar Oron, he asked the simple, obvious question: “Why is it like this?” With a background in building online communities, he wondered why there wasn’t an app for designers to present patterns and for crafters to consume them in a more user-friendly way. Sometimes it takes a newcomer to ask the question everyone else has stopped asking.

Along with a developer, the pair formed Ribblr, an online community and pattern platform that supports projects in knitting, crochet, and sewing. Patterns on Ribblr allow you to hide unused sizes, cross off completed rows, change colors, and change measurements and instructions to your preferred regional settings. Users can join groups in the site’s forums for support and track projects there. Although the company is based on creativity through technology, they draw one line firmly: the projects on Ribblr must be human-created, not made with AI technology. (Lir even wrote a song about it!)

For the month of August 2026, Long Thread Media and Ribblr are hosting a Market Day Challenge: Create a booth presenting your handmade crafts (at an actual crafts market or an imagined setup), submit a journal entry with a photo of your booth, and enter for a chance to win 50 Gems that you can use to purchase patterns on Ribblr.

Links

Ribblr

Market Day Challenge, the August 2026 Ribblr/Long Thread Media collaboration

Download the Crocheted Peddler’s Pack, Golden Hour Bag, and Bay Leaf Bag free as PDFs or visit Ribblr’s digital platform to claim them

Hear Lir perform her song about Ribblr’s AI policy

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway’s array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

The Michigan Fiber Festival—Michigan’s largest sheep and wool festival—is a vibrant world of fiber arts. Discover five days of classes with nationally recognized teachers in spinning, weaving, lacemaking, dyeing, felting, and rug hooking. Enjoy three days of shopping. Delight in shearing and fiber arts demonstrations. Enjoy a truly immersive experience.

Join us in August at the picturesque Allegan County Fairgrounds (you can even camp on site!) Find more details at michiganfiberfestival.info.

The Mountain & Valley Fiber Arts Festival comes to Durango, Colorado, the first full weekend in October. Formerly the Taos Wool Festival, this new chapter brings together natural fiber artists, vendors, instructors, growers, and makers for a weekend of shopping, learning, and community. Plan your fiber arts weekend at Mountain & Valley Fiber Arts Fest at mavwafiberartsfest.org.

A pair of silk stockings, mended again and again below the ankle, set Emily Whitted on the path of discovery that has led her through archives and museums of early American history. The stockings belonged to Philadelphia’s Stephen Girard, who was one of the wealthiest men in America. Museum records didn’t mention the mends, though the socks had been repaired several times, making them as invisible to historians examining records as anyone Girard met on the street. Textiles were valuable in the early 19th century, and even a wealthy man wore stockings mended by one of the women of his household.

Mending, darning, and repair became the subject of Emily’s doctoral thesis at the University of Massachusetts Amherst, a project she has nearly completed. Her research into mending has led her to investigate how repaired clothing could identify a person trying to self-emancipate, how well repaired clothing could indicate moral character, and how groups of men repaired not only their belongings but also sails in maritime life.

Emily was drawn into the history of textiles by her interest in the role of cloth in women’s lives. With a background in public history (presenting information about the past to non-specialists), she recently curated an exhibition at the Webb Deane Stevens Museum in Connecticut about the variety of samplers that early American girls stitched. Although we generally think of samplers as purely decorative showpieces, darning samplers demonstrated practical skill in mending, too.

As a badge of creativity and conservation, mending has recently taken center stage, with visible mending as a badge of honor. Emily Whitted’s historical research shows just how much we have in common not only with the girls who stitched samplers but also the invisible hands that repaired the cloth of early Americans.

Links

Read more about Emily’s research: “A Historical Antidote to Today’s Fast Fashion Culture,” UMass Amherst College of Humanities & Fine Arts

“Stockings once worn by Philly’s wealthiest man show the value of women’s mending in early America,” Emily‘s essay for The Conversation

American Girlhood: Needlework, Memory, and the Making of a Nation, the sampler exhibition Emily guest-curated at the Webb Deane Stevens Museum, Wethersfield, Connecticut, is on view through December 2026

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

The Michigan Fiber Festival—Michigan’s largest sheep and wool festival—is a vibrant world of fiber arts. Discover five days of classes with nationally recognized teachers in spinning, weaving, lacemaking, dyeing, felting, and rug hooking. Enjoy three days of shopping. Delight in shearing and fiber arts demonstrations. Enjoy a truly immersive experience.

Join us in August at the picturesque Allegan County Fairgrounds (you can even camp on site!) Find more details at [michiganfiberfestival.info.](The Michigan Fiber Festival – Michigan's largest sheep and wool festival – is a vibrant world of fiber arts. Discover five days of classes with nationally recognized teachers in spinning, weaving, lacemaking, dyeing, felting, and rug hooking. Enjoy three days of shopping. Delight in shearing and fiber arts demonstrations. Enjoy a truly immersive experience.

Join us in August at the picturesque Allegan County Fairgrounds (you can even camp on site!) Find more details at michiganfiberfestival.info.)