Ep 218: The King of Riesling: Ernst Loosen on Mosel, Terroir & Global Riesling Projects (Part 1)
Hello wine friends, and welcome back! Today’s guest is none other than Ernst Loosen - widely regarded as Riesling royalty and the visionary behind Germany’s legendary Dr. Loosen estate in the Mosel Valley.
In this episode, we dive into Ernst’s bold reimagining of Mosel Riesling, including an extraordinary 27-year lees-aged wine experiment that continues to evolve and amaze. We explore what makes Riesling so uniquely expressive in the Mosel’s slate soils, cool climate, and dramatic river bends, and how Ernst has helped shift global perceptions of the grape - from sweet to serious.
From reviving his grandfather’s dry wine traditions to employing lees aging, oak fermentation, and extended maturation, Ernst shares how he crafts age-worthy, structured wines. With a global perspective shaped by work in Washington State (Chateau Ste. Michelle), Australia’s Clare Valley (Jim Barry), and beyond, he compares Riesling styles across continents and spotlights an unexpected collaboration with Spain’s Telmo Rodríguez, a skin-fermented dry Riesling you won’t see coming.
This is a rare, in-depth conversation with one of Riesling’s greatest modern champions. A journey through time, terroir, tradition, and transformation.
If you want to skip ahead:
03.00: Ernie’s accolades and biography
04.00: Taking over the family wine business in 1987
06.00: Vision for business: improve wine quality with indigenous yeast, better selection.
08.00: Tough decisions managing old estates, including employee retention in 1987 harvest.
09.30: Focus on leftover grapes during the harvest as an innovative solution.
10.00: 1987 vintage turned out well despite early challenges.
16.00: Discussing the 1981 Wehlener Sonnenuhr ‘Indutiomarus’ Riesling left on lees for 27 years.
18.00: History influences winemaking practices, referencing Mosel's 1800s Rieslings. (some of the most expensive wines of the world a that time)
20.00: Historical winemaking methods, like barrel aging and long ageing and this influence on wine style now.
23.00: Discussing and tasting the 2021 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Grosses Gewächs Riesling made from 100+ years old vines. £33 Lay & Wheeler
30.00: Wine label confusion is a global issue, not just German or French labels.
33.00: “Dry” label helps consumers unfamiliar with terms like GG: Grosses Gewächs.
34.00: Dr. L label’s success lies in simplifying for consumers, especially the UK market.
38.00: Riesling excels in single vineyards, highlighting terroir differences.
41.00: Mosel’s unique terroir, steep slopes, and river create ideal Riesling conditions.
45.30: Slate warms the soil, conserving heat during cool nights.
49.00: Dr Loosen GG Reserve style: at least two years in barrel for broader mouthfeel and riper fruit.
49.30: Rieslings from different regions maintain unique characteristics. Meet EROICA from Washington and LOOSENBARRY from Claire Valley.
52.30: Washington Riesling maintains moderate alcohol despite high sugar ripeness.
54.30: Pushing boundaries with Telmo Rodríguez, producing an Orange skin contact Riesling in Rioja barrels: Ernst Loosen & Telmo Rodriguez Graacher Himmelreich Riesling
56.00: Riesling’s global future holds potential with numerous ongoing projects.
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Until next time, Cheers to you!
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